Coffee companies are going all in on automation. We’re told that it improves efficiency, cuts costs, and yields a better product. But what does it mean for the baristas whose labour these automations displace?
For paid subscribers: Today, Sweden is famous for its love of coffee. But historically that hasn’t always been the case, and one particular ruler’s attempts to prove coffee’s harmful health impacts may have been the world’s first randomised controlled trial.
Hello and welcome to the year 2022, which looks and feels a lot like 2021. But here we are, January 1st, and what better way to start off a new rotation around the sun than by looking back on the year gone and all the coffee news that happened.
Well, some of it. There was a lot.
The worldwide supply chain crisis caused by the (somehow still ongoing) COVID-19 pandemic impacted the coffee industry in myriad ways, from shipping delays to the rebounding of the commodity C price. This increase in the base price for coffee was also a consequence of increased climate instability around the world, but particularly in Brazil where droughts, frosts, and rains hampered production in the world’s largest coffee-producing country.
The big news on the consuming side last year was the explosion of coffee organizing in the United States, most notably the bitterly fought—but ultimately successful—Starbucks unionization campaign in Buffalo, New York.
There was also much corporate coffeewashing in 2021, surprise surprise, as well as good news on the coffee health front. So pour yourself another cup and let’s journey through the coffee year that was.
The Year in Coffee Volatility
The global pandemic that has shaped all our lives for the past two years continued to affect the coffee industry in 2021. Aside from the obvious human impacts, lockdowns and supply chain issues meant that coffee’s journey around the world became slower and more convoluted. A “supply chain nightmare”, according to one article in Bloomberg from March.
Coffee, of course, is a fragile agricultural product that requires stable, reliable weather patterns to grow and produce successfully. Extreme, unpredictable weather events, alongside increasingly temperamental climate patterns, have made many fear the worst for the future of everyone’s favourite morning beverage.
In July Sprudge wrote a good explainer on all the ways climate change is affecting coffee, from changing weather patterns forcing producers to move uphill to extreme events destroying livelihoods and lives across the coffee belt.
The human cost of climate change shouldn’t be forgotten in all this, and in 2021 there were more reports of producers in Central America abandoning the industry in order to seek out a new life further north. As we’ll see further down, big coffee companies have been quick to offer “solutions” to this problem in the form of “investment” in the region.
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Close up of a barista pouring latte art with a jug into a cup, seen from above. Via Unsplash
2021: The Year of the Coffee Union
If there was one unmitigated bright spot in coffee over the past year, it would undoubtedly be the increase in organizing among front-line workers in the United States.
In the realm of coffeewashing, 2021 wasn’t exactly a standout year. What corporations did to avoid responsibility for the bad stuff and take credit for the good stuff wasn’t anything new—if you’ve followed this blog for any amount of time, then you know the score.
For example, a report released last month showed that the biggest companies, global corporations like Starbucks, JDE Peet’s, Lavazza, Keurig, and of course Nestlé, don’t pay a living wage to those in their supply chain.
Or how about this story from way back in January 2021 saying that “there is little evidence efforts by the world’s top coffee roasters and traders to prevent human rights and environmental abuses are having any impact, with most farmers operating at a loss and unable to produce sustainably.”
On the “we’re helping, honest” side of things, there were press releases like this one where Nespresso brags about donating $100,000 to plant trees in Canada—while its parent company Nestlé works with suppliers who are actively cutting down the rainforest to grow trees for palm oil.
It seems the takeaway here is that nobody knows anything, we’re all just scrabbling around in the dark when it comes to coffee, and that maybe enjoying things in moderation is the way to go. But I’m not a scientist.
The Year in Silly/Dystopian Coffee News
To finish up (and congratulations for making it this far!), let’s take a look at some of the sillier and/or scarily dystopian headlines that made up the year in coffee.
Resurfaced Violent Muppet Killings Give Bygone Brand Wilkins Coffee A Moment (from the week of February 26th)—Jim Henson once made ads for a coffee company, and they’re surprisingly violent.
Goodbye, Coffee? Service Members Might Soon Be Fueled By A Jolt To The Brain (from the week of June 25th)—because what we need is active duty military personnel being zapped into staying awake before being strapped into their multi-billion-dollar death machines.
Coheed And Cambria Launch Their Own Coffee Brand (from the week of February 19th)—I want to write a whole article on bands and coffee collaborations.
Black Sheep Coffee Sells NFTs Of Its Wall Art (from the week of December 24th)—as if the world wasn’t stupid enough, now we have a coffee NFT crossover.
So there you have it—2021 was a long, sad, weird year. Here’s to a better 2022.
I'm the creator and writer of The Pourover. Based in Scotland, I have over a decade of experience in the specialty coffee industry as a barista, roaster, and writer. Ask me about coffeewashing.